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Fishing at the End of the World
Fishing at the End of the World, by Jason A.
Fishing with a single line is not the most effective or efficient use of one�s time when the goal is to harvest fish for food. At the best, I have seen fishermen attend to four or five lines with limited success. Any more than that will cost the fisherman bait and bites. When TEOTWAWKI arrives the chances that we find time to enjoy the simpler pleasures�such as wetting a line in the shade while enjoying a brew�will vanish. The purpose of this writing is to describe the several methods that will produce large catches with little or no attention needed. The techniques have varied names depending on where you are from and some work in different ways but the goal is the same: To present lines to the fish with a means to work against the fish, thus hooking it, fighting it and/or notifying the fisherman of a bite. Thus, many of the techniques act essentially as water bound traps. The primary prey pursued with these techniques is catfish. Catfish are one few fish with a very wide range. According to author Joseph S. Nelson, different types of catfish can be found on every continent except Antarctica. (Fishes of the World, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. ISBN 047125031) However, they may not all be edible (I know of several saltwater species that are not). Catfish are very nutritious as well. According to one Internet reference, one three-ounce serving of freshwater catfish contains "about 146 calories, 17 grams of protein and 8.7 grams of fat." Not to mention essential vitamins and minerals. Smaller variants of the methods described and different baits can be used with other species of fish however. It must be said, also, that when fishing for catfish, turtles are likely. However turtles are usually not an unwelcome catch as they are as tasty as catfish (though they are more difficult to pull up). In my home state of Kentucky most if not all fishing techniques have clear and strict regulations to ensure fair harvest and safety. For instance, here in Kentucky sport lines such as are described in this writing must be certain distances from dams and are restricted in bodies of water of certain sizes. In Kentucky, Each sport fishing trotline, jug line or set line must be: 1) permanently labeled with the name and address of the user; 2) baited, checked and all fish removed at least once every 24 hours; 3) removed from water, bank or tree when fishing ceases. Important warning: Check your state and local regulations before embarking upon any fishing venture. Jug Lines I begin this writing with the subject of jug lines because of all of the techniques in this article, there are none more productive or entertaining. As with most fishing techniques there are several variations so experimentation cannot be discounted. Anything that fits the purpose is sufficient. That purpose is nothing more than to present a baited hook to your prey and attach it to something (a jug) that pulls back sufficiently to hook the fish and notify the angler. The jug line advantage is that the line depth can present the bait at multiple depths if the feeding zone is not known. This allows the angler to set multiple jugs at varying depths until a successful depth is discovered. The simplest and most recognizable setup involves nothing more than a jug, a line, a hook and a sinker. The jug could be almost anything that floats. Two liter or 16 ounce soda bottles are fine. Empty and cleaned detergent or bleach bottles are superb as they are thick and float well. As of late, more and more anglers are determined to refine the technique by �building� jugs. The most effective ones are nothing more than a length of PVC pipe threaded through a �pool noodle�. The pipe should be longer than the noodle and the noodle should be pushed on and secured to one end. The line and accompaniments are tied to the pipe at the exposed end. Thus, when the fish pulls down, the noodle stands up as notification of a �fish on�. The jug can float on the current or it can be anchored by tying on another line or by placing the hook line off the main line by using a swivel. Kentucky laws restrict the quantity of jug lines to no more than 50 per boat. Jug lines may contain only one hook per jug. Check your state and local regulations. Limb Lines (Set Lines) Limb lines are simply lengths of line with the end opposite the hook secured to an overhanging limb. This technique is probably better suited for rivers because limbs overhanging lakes will more than likely be located in shallow water. One variation of limb lines is cane poling, where the limb is provided by the angler. Basically the longest and most sturdy (while flexible) length of cane is equipped with a hook, line, sinker (optional) and bait. The opposite end of the cane is driven deep into the ground of the nearby bank. The arc of the cane is the indication of the bite. Kentucky laws restrict the quantity of limb lines to no more than 25 per person. Set lines may contain only one hook per line. Trotlines Trotlines are simply limb lines with more than one hook. The additional hooks are attached to shorter lengths of line which are attached to the main line via swivels. Knots keep the swivels from moving the shorter lines where they are unwanted. One end of the line is attached to a stationary object on shore such as a tree (limb or trunk) or a fence post. The other end should be anchored in some way. A coffee can filled with dry cement and an eye bolt is fine or a brick works equally as well. Do not do as most old timers do and bait up your hooks from shore and toss the brick. It is a good way to get an arm (or head) full of hooks. There are variations to the standard trotline. Both ends can be tied to stationary shore objects and the line can be strung across the water with a weight in the center. As with the other techniques improvisation is an art and can yield better results. Kentucky laws restrict the quantity of trot lines to no more than 2 per person. There are also strict regulations on the quantity of hooks per line as well as the spacing of said hooks. The line must also be set three feet or more below the water�s surface. Hooks Hooks must be chosen based on the application. As a general rule, for these techniques, the stronger the hook the better the performance. Stronger is relative not only to the material of the hook (which should be steel) or the thickness (thicker the better) but also the coating. The hooks should be zinc-coated at the very least. Stainless steel is best. Remember that these hooks are going to spend a great deal of time submerged. In fact, the best trotline hooks are probably saltwater hooks. The style of hook to be used is mostly personal preference. Some will argue that certain styles work better. Choose the appropriate hook for the prey and bait. I personally prefer a circle hook as I think it does a better job of hooking the fish and keeping it hooked. I don�t have any data to back up this claim. The engineer in me tells me this is correct and that also the deep circular bend would also prove stronger. Maybe one day I�ll test that theory. The size of the hook, again, must be chosen to fit the application. Most sizes from size 3/0 to 6/0 are used commonly. The middle ground is the most common. Line The line used should be strong and most synthetic materials can be used. Cotton should not be used, however. Surveyors twine is strong when dry but is absolutely the worst line to use. The line must be like the hook, impervious to the effects of being submerged for extended amounts of time. Some suppliers in New England offer a line that is tarred for water resistance. Heavy braided fishing lines can also be used. The diameter is not very important. The fish will not see the lines or hooks; they will come to the lines by smelling and feeling the bait. Bait The bait placed on the line will, in most cases, determine the catch. Flathead catfish are notoriously picky and most times will only take live bait such as shiners, chubs or bluegill. Most times, these baits can be lip-hooked. I feel, however, that hooking them through the eye or toward the tail improves the bite. It may seem cruel but the more injured the bait appears, the more likely the predator will strike. Blue catfish and channel catfish will bite live bait and almost anything else including but not limited to: shrimp, leeches, worms, chicken liver or gizzards, catalpa worms, doughbait, stinkbait, and cutbait. It is important not to overlook anything as bait. It should also be noted that certain baits work better on certain days or seasons. The good news is that you can set enough lines to experiment and see what works. Location The best places to set jug lines are along large, long flats where large catfish roam, hunting their prey. On lakes, creek arms or shallow bays are prime locations. Timing Most fishermen prefer to try their luck during the hours just before and after dusk and well into the night. Full moon nights seem to produce the best. Catfish are great hunters in any light due to their amazing senses however. Catfish can taste with many different parts of their body. They are sometimes called �swimming tongues�. Combine that with the electro receptors in its head and it becomes the perfect killing machine�a virtual freshwater shark�in low light conditions. While Blues and Channels will eat anything, including junk, the Flathead prefers live bait and thus is more vulnerable at night when hunting is easy. After the Catch Despite what many people say, a catfish can be filleted as any normal fish might. Skinning is not necessary but can decrease the amount of meat that is wasted. The knife used for filleting must be very sharp. Use caution. Start with a cut that runs parallel the fish�s gills but is rear of the pectoral fin. Make that cut, also parallel to the cutting surface or ground, until the knife hits bone. Remove the knife. Reinsert the knife, with the flat of the blade parallel to the bone you just hit, starting with the tip at the fish�s back. While slicing, insert the tip further and work the cuts toward the rear of the fish. If you are contacting the rib bones you are making the cuts deep enough. Once you move the knife rear of the ribs you can insert it straight down and out the other side at the bottom of the fish. Continue rearward, keeping the knife as close to bone as possible. When you have reached the tail, flip the meat over and severe any additional attachment points. After the fillet and skin combination has been removed from the fish lay it on a flat surface with the skin down. Lay the knife blade parallel to the cutting surface and remove the meat from the skin. Place the first fillet in cool clean water with a dash of salt added. The salt will prevent bacteria growth and will season the meat a bit. Repeat for the opposite side. Once your fish have been filleted, wash your hands and proceed with steps to cook your catch. Pat the fish dry and dredge in cornmeal, fry in a cast iron skillet full of cooking oil. Enjoy! Conclusion When securing food is of a higher priority than having a good time, the techniques described in this article are far superior to rod and reel. That being said, the entertainment value of simply providing food for the table by hunting a prey and succeeding make the reward just that much tastier. http://www.survivalblog.com/ |
Re: Fishing at the End of the World
Sure, just tell everyone!! :cry1:
"You bring a line I'll bring a pole, honey, honey." "You bring a line I'll bring a pole, honey, honey." "You bring a line, I'll bring a pole, don't forget a handgun at the fishing hole, honey oh babe be mine." |
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Conclusion
When securing food is of a higher priority than having a good time, the techniques described in this article are far superior to rod and reel. That being said, the entertainment value of simply providing food for the table by hunting a prey and succeeding make the reward just that much tastier. This is how I will fish when TSHTF......... http://scienceblogs.com/deepseanews/Dynamite.jpg |
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I thought gill netting was the real SHTF fishing method... illegal now, but if you're starving I think you might consider it ;)
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I get hungry.......I am going use whatever tools I have at my disposal to eat.
Laws be dammed..........they have no basis in common sense anyways. T |
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Will you kill other people to take what is theirs? s |
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Well.......Heaven knows I did the best the I could but it wasnt enough........ my family has to eat. I will have to square it up with God on my dying day(may come at the hands of the defender). Nothing to be proud of either way. T |
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Ever heard of fishing with walnuts? I read that the jugalone stuns the fish, and they float to the top of the pond in a zombie like state.
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When I was a kid we had a local spillway that dropped about 30 feet. That is where we would fish. As they would drop over the spillway and be stunned. We just grabbed the biggest ones until the bucket was full.
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As you should be...........survial of the fittest at that point. T |
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I just kinda squat where the water gets shallow. As the salmon rushes upstream they kinda beach themselves and wriggle upstream. I pick them up and put them in the cooler.
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But THAT going on NOW is BS.:36_1_30: what a waste.:s15: |
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Then again, it never ceases to amaze me how wasteful we are as a nation. It did remind me of smelt fishing with off the piers of Chicago many years ago. Those were good times. But even the smelt are not running like they did in the past. Quote:
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Must be a beautiful thing! |
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A fish trap is somewhat easy to build from sticks and wild grape vine, or chicken wire if you have any at hand. Placed in a fast moving stream it will give you a couple of fish a day. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
Tall ships talked about "fishing with walnuts" it works, I've done it. It takes a few hours in a slow moving stream but the fish come to the surface of the water and you can dip them with a net or gig them. Dynamite works too but explosives are better saved for the Revolution. |
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If things got real tough, I would head to the Texas Gulf Coast...lots of sealife and wildgame...and farming.
To catch Redfish, all you need is some jalapenos. |
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how is the fish trap constructed? im interested. |
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the alaska boys like low five already know this, so this is for others... when red salmon come out of the salt water they are a bright silver...they eventually start turning a reddish color as they live in the fresh water rivers, streams and lakes before spawning... these salmon are about 40 miles from the ocean and heading up the last stretch of water before they spawn and die...they won't travel another quarter mile... past experience tells me there are probably 3 or 4 brown bear within a stones throw of the creek where i took the photo laying down all fat and lazy in the afternoon sun...and really don't have a care that i am there... at a secret place... :) ...................... |
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Very nice place. A man could live there and almost never have to come out of the wilderness. Looks like it could get cold there in the winter though.
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<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p> 1 Decide on the dimensions you need for the type and size fish you are going to trap. Minnows or panfish for bait can be caught in a trap 12 inches diameter by 24 inches in length, large catfish, carp, and suckers require a much larger trap. <o:p></o:p> 2 Choose a shape for your trap. Many are rectangular, with a 1:2:4 height, width, and length ratio, but cylindrical traps work well if there is not any current in the water to cause them to roll and become fouled. <o:p></o:p> 3 Select the material you will build the trap out of. In Alabama, where trapping catfish is a long standing tradition, the finest traps are built by craftsmen using white oak strips, woven together with galvanized steel or copper wire. Because this takes considerable skill and time, we will look at building a trap with a wire mesh fabric or poultry netting. The choice then, is the mesh size, determined by the size fish you are trapping. For bait minnows, a hardware cloth in 1/4 or 1/2 inch mesh is fine, for suckers or carp, poultry netting is less expensive. <o:p></o:p> 4 Cut the wire mesh large enough to fold into a "box" and allowing for overlap at the seam. A 12 inch X 24 inch X 48 inch trap will require a sheet of wire fabric 6 feet long and 4 feet wide. <o:p></o:p> 5 Mark the fabric across the width at 12 inches, 36 inches, 48 inches, and 72 inches, and using a length of straight lumber, fold at each mark 90 degrees, to form a box. Tie the final corner with plastic "snap ties" or light gauge wire. <o:p></o:p> 6 Cut another piece of wire fabric 12 X 24 inches for the end of the box, and secure it in place with the same ties or wire you seamed the box in the previous step. <o:p></o:p> 7 Form a funnel with the wire fabric for the end of the box you have not closed up yet. The funnel openning will have to be large enough for the fish to swim into, tapering down to leave this openning facing into the box. Secure this piece in place with wire that can be untied later to release or remove your catch. <o:p></o:p> 8 Place an "onion bag", or mesh fruit bag filled with your bait into the trap, along with a large stone or piece of brick to weight the trap down, tie the funnel in, and you are ready to "set" the trap. <o:p></o:p> Tie a strong line to the trap so that you can pull it out of the water when you are ready to check it, take the whole apparatus to the water, choose your "fishing hole", and lower it in. <o:p></o:p> Pull the trap in slowly when you decide to check it, keeping in mind you never know what will be inside it. |
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